Salay multicolored monastery and Myanmar Handiwork 

 

   By Maung Tha (Archaeology)

Among Myanmar wooden monasteries found in many areas, monasteries
decorated with woodcarving Buddhist plots of dramas were known as
multicolored monasteries. Among them, Mandalay multicolored monastery
at the foot of Mandalay Hill, Sagaing multicolored monastery under the
Sagaing mountain range, Sagu multicolored monastery near Minbu-Salin
road, Salin monastery at Wethe Lake, Salin town and Legaing
multicolored monastery and woodcarving multicolored monastery are most
famous.
Chauk and Salay
Salay town, situated on the east bank of the River Ayeyawady, is 56
km( 34 mile) south of Bagan town, 23km(15mile) veering towards south.
Salay town had been administered by Township Officer until 1930 and
Township Administrative Officer moved to Chauk town in 1930 where
there were many oilwells, leaving Salay town in the rank of mere
village in the Chauk town.
According to the Myanmar Encyclopaedia, the Salay town was a domestic
port and remained as a small town during flourishing Feudalism. Salay
town was famous for Salay King Kwe, Konbaung Era’s late poet Salay U
Ponnya and seedless jujube fruit. U Ponnya, jujube fruit and
multicolored monastery are outstanding symbols of Salay town. In
accordance with the statistics issued in 2013 by Archaeology and
National Museum Department, 19 ancient buildings including a
multicolored monastery have been maintained.
Multicolored Monastery
There are eight monasteries of Konbaung Era in Salay town; Salay
multicolored monastery built in Yadanabon Era was removed in 1992 and
opened in 1995 as a museum. Former U Ponnya monastery was gutted by
fire and the brick building was replaced by as a library, standing
tall up until today under the supervision of Archaeology and National
Department. Merchant U Po Kyi of North Salay built Salay multicolored
monastery in 1244 ME for Sayadaw U Guna to reside at the monastery so
that it took years to get it finished in 1254 ME. Donor U Po Kyi asked
for the permission for building a multicolored monastery from the King
who allowed the donor by a royal order to fell trees in the
state-owned forest without paying any taxes.
(n Konbaung Era, restrictions were imposed on sizes and decorations of
the monasteries in accordance with the reputation of a residing
Sayadaw and a donor. As U Guna was a residing Sayadaw and U Po Kyi was
a rich man, the monastery with four ladders was decorated  with carved
figurines and floral designs. In ancient times, the houses where the
princes once lived, were donated when they became kings. The houses
were called royal houses and imitated houses were known as royal
monasteries.
U Po Kyi, with the help of carpenters from Tanyaung village, built a
big monastery which was composed of 154 teak posts, each post with a
girth of average six feet. The size of the monastery was 152 feet long
and with a width of 76 feet. Irons with a measurement of 1 ½ to 13
inches for the monastery were made in the Blacksmith’s workshop in
Tanyaung village.
The structure of Salay multicolored monastery
The Salay multicolored monastery was built of many-tiered annexes,
Sanu annexe, Saunghla annexe, main hall, Khon and Bawga annexes. The
annexe in front of the monastery had seven tiers referring to the
Mount Meru. The monastery was attached with four ladders: elephant
figurehead at the southwest corner, horse figurehead at the northwest
corner, lion figurehead at the southeast corner and cow figurehead at
the northeast. By now these figureheads are not found distinctly. At
the same way, the mythical animal at the north ladder was installed
with a pointed crest and a mouth agape whereas the one at the south
ladder with a round crest and a mouth shut up. The two mythical
animals were believed to mean an ascent and a descent to the
monastery.
Annexes were paved with circular streets and attached with roofless
balconies. Posts along the streets were covered with sand and rocks to
prevent from the state of decay. The figurines of princes and
alchemists were beautifully sculpted in the covers of sand and rocks
which disappeared gradually to be replaced with bell-shaped covers. On
the north side of the monastery, the Yadanabon Era sculptural designs
were found on the railings and gates ranging from the east to the
west. The figures were sculpted by U Shan and Ko Shwepyi and other
woodcarvers. Sayadaw U Guna ordered these figures to be sculpted to
get the criminals ashamed from committing adultery and for repentence.
U Guna and multicolored monastery
King Mindon and Seinton Queen worshipped Sayadaw U Guna who was
revered by the Queen from the rank of lady-in-waiting. At the time of
becoming a queen, she addressed formally to the Sayadaw to build a
monastery in Nay Pyi Taw. Rejecting a royal offer, the Sayadaw decided
to reside at two Salay monasteries alternatively. Therefore, Seintone
Queen built a monastery in Sinmakyatkan village, somewhat like a
Zetawon monastery.
Sayadaw taught the Buddhist Scriptures to other monks at the
Dekhitnawon monastery for seven days and resided at a monastery
situated far from laypersons. Again in 1231 ME, boat owner U Pike and
wife Daw Ein Kywe built a monastery with nine annexes. Sayadaw
punished those who had destroyed a tranquil life in the country in
accordance with Buddhist Scriptures and so did for the depraved monks.
The construction of a woodcarving multicolored monastery, in which
Sayadaw U Guna would reside happened to coincide with dethroning King
Thibaw in 1247 ME, lasted for ten years. In 1254 ME, the husband and
the wife donated the monastery to U Guna. The monastery was handed
over to his disciple U Ponnya to reside in multicolored monastery. At
that time, Sayadaw was summoned to a British court for being allegedly
involved in a case. The court called U Guna in the boyhood name of
Maung Htaung and the Sayadaw disappeared from the monastery after the
end of lawsuit.
U Guna was believed to have passed away in around 1258 ME and to have
resided in Lamugyi village , Hinthada area. His disciples---monks and
U Po Kyi--- went to the village to collect his bones and brought back
to Salay town to enshrine his bones in Maha Abaya Pagoda.
Woodcarving in multicolored monastery
Woodcarving figures included many Buddha’s life stories which were
sculpted for the laypersons to get ashamed from doing misdeeds.
According to the history of Salay multicolored monastery , there are
45 figures totally including 36 figures from Jatakas. Among them, some
figures could not be described for their origins. Woodcarving figures
beautifully hand-crafted in Salay multicolored monastery are more
famous than those in other monasteries.
Translated by Arakan Sein
Ref: Myanmar Traditional Designs and Monasteries ( Maung Yin
Hlaingg,Pyinmamyaing)
       World-famous woodcarving figures from woodcarving multicolored
monastery( Maung Maung Latt)

Translated by Arakan Sein

Hla Maung (Arakan Sein)
122, 3rd Floor(4B), 93rd Street, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon.
Tel : 0930410245