Article 12 Februaey 2020

 

 

Puzzle of Kyat Cave in Loikaw

Maung Tha (Archaeology)

Mountain ranges linking with Shan plateau among various hills and mountains which emerged depending on geological conditions of the Earth are stretching from Kayin, Mon and Kayah states to Taninthayi Region. Natural caves and tunnels position in some parts of these mountain ranges, including Kyat Cave in Kayah State located in southern part of Shan plateau.    

Stalactites, natural tracks of water, ancient Buddha images and votive tablets at natural caves attracted travellers. However, some pieces of wood assumed as damaged coffins in Kyat Cave caught interest of the travellers, increasing number of visitors. That was why Kyat Cave became a tourist destination of Myanmar.

Loikaw

According to the records of the Ministry of Home Affairs, as Loikaw was established by U Thiri in 1200 Myanmar Era (1838 AD), it was in the past named Thiridaw Village established near Taungkwe Hill. As such, the village was called Loikhaw in Shan language. In this regard, Loi means hill and Khaw, separately in Shan language. Later, Loikhaw changed to Lweikaw and then to Loikaw.

On 20 April 1888, Chieftain of Kandarawady Sao La Wee established his palace in Loikaw. Kayah region, which was located as Kayinni State before regaining independence of Myanmar, became Kayah State in 1951.

Existing Loikaw Township was formed with 19 wards and 123 villages of 12 village-tracts on 17 March 2016. Loikaw Township on 598.06 square miles of land shares border with Shadaw Township in the east, Demawhso Township in the west, Bawlakhe Township in the south and Pekhon and Hsihseng townships of Shan State in the north.

Loikaw Township is filled with lesser area of plains but with thick forests and mountains. Among the hills, Thiri Mingala Hill (Taungkwe), Shwe Hill, Taungthonlon Hill, Myakalat Hill and Shweletwah Hill are famous in the township. As Bilu Creek is a main water source in Loikaw Township, Bilu Creek hydropower plant (Lawpita) supplies electricity to various towns and villages across Myanmar.

Loikaw Township at an altitude of 2,950 feet is home to Kayah, Bamar and Shan ethnics as the majority.

Kyat Cave

Travellers who arrived in Loikaw focused on visits to Taungkwe Pagoda, Lawpita and Ngwetaung Dam in the past. Nowadays, travellers pay visits to Kyat Cave in addition to the aforesaid sites.

Kyat Cave, being famous among travellers since a few years, is located 10 miles east of Loikaw. Travellers leading to Kyat Cave must come from Pinlaung to Loikaw. At the junction to Loikaw, they need to turn the left. They can reach the cave by driving along the smooth road to the foot of the hill where the cave is located.

As the mouth of the cave is 120 feet high from the foot of the hill at an altitude of 2,990 feet, brick steps were made to the hill with rails. Local people called the hill, the location of Kyat Cave, as Rasuku in Kayah language.

Currently, local Buddhist monk U Vayama leads maintenance tasks of the cave. Travellers are urged to take off foot wares before entering the cave. But, Kyat Cave, being a limestone structure, is always wet at its earthen floor.

The 2,194 metres long one-closed end cave is gradually narrowing inside. Anyone cannot walk till the end of the pavement. The 600 metres long inside part of the cave is facilitated with lighting starting from the mouth. Wooden bridges at some parts help travellers move conveniently.

We found woods and pieces of timber logs in shape of coffins around 300 feet area from the entrance. Among them, some timber logs were carved in shape of coffins but some were sawn timber. No structure in good conditions was found. Collapsed wooden posts and bars assumed as stages on which carved timber logs might be put were found near the walls inside the cave. Some of the stages were 20 feet high from the cave floor.

Although local people said there remained human skeletons in the coffins, not only fossils but remains of humans were found there at present. However, some pieces of earthen pot were seen near the pieces of wood. That is why it needs to conduct research on these pieces whether or not related to the customs of Myanmar in breaking the water pot at a time when corpse was conveyed to the graveyard.

It was a strange fact that although the carved wooden pieces found in Kyat Cave were assumed as coffins, there was no piece of human bones.

A large number of woods assumed as coffins were found in the interior part of the cave. One ends of wood were on the interior walls and other ends on the cave floor in disarray. Drag-holes were seen at some timber logs. It can be assumed that these logs were tied with ropes to pull them out from the foot of hill to the cave and to control them inside the cave not to drop into the ravine.

The coffin shaped logs were carved of teak, most of which were broken and damaged. Each of them was eight to 15 feet long. The carved parts were about 20 inches to two feet wide. As the logs were longer than the area where a human body could be put, anyone did not know when the logs existed and these were in shape of coffins, Kyat Cave became a puzzle one.

Coffins hanging at rocky hill side

A cremation custom happened in China from 400 to 2,500 years ago that coffins in which dead bodies were kept were hung at the rocks for cremation. Similar hanging coffins were found in Indonesia and the Philippines. Especially, Bao race residing in southern China practised hanging coffins for cremation of remains.

We saw wooden coffins in various sizes and forms of logs put on the edges of rocks and hung at the rocky walls in the caves.

Hanging the coffins of dead bodies aimed to protect them danger of wildlife and to invite gods from the heaven. Due to the belief that gods from the heaven call the dead, coffins were placed on the high stages to be closer to the gods.

Evidences were found that similar traditions were practised in some parts of China, the Philippines and Indonesia. However, anyone could not know the aim of hanging the coffins but they could generally assume it might be easy access for the dead to the gods.

Coffins in Kyat Cave

The evidences on hanging the coffins in which dead bodies were kept were found at Kyat Cave in Myanmar. However, any fossils, pieces of bones and bodies were not found around the coffins. That was why some researchers assumed pieces of woods in Kyat Cave might not be coffins. Post-graduate students of Anthropology Department of Yangon University reviewed these pieces might be the carved boats similar to the coffins. These boats might be stored in the cave due to something reasons. Although each human could not have more than seven feet high, the coffin-designed logs in the cave were sizes for two persons.

It was a puzzle for all that the exact fact when the carved logs were sent into the cave and who sent them could not be discovered, catching attentions of the travellers.

Although the custom on cremating the dead bodies in the carved logs into the cave was not found in Myanmar, teak log coffins were found on roofs of Bo Krai and Ban Rai caves in Pang Mapha District of Mae Hong Son Province in northern Thailand. As Pang Mapha District of Thailand is located in the east of Loikaw, close to same latitude via mountain ranges, if research could discover the relations of culture between the two areas, the puzzle of Kyat Cave could be solved.

Travellers to Kyat Cave are allowed to pay visits to the cave from 9 am to 4 pm daily. As interest of local and international travellers helps develop tourism industry at Kyat Cave, if firm evidences can be exposed, Kyat Cave will have more development.

Translated by Than Tun Aung

Yangon University strives to climb back to world level

Yangon University strives to climb back to world level

By Myint Maung Soe

            Once upon a time Yangon University was one of the most prestigious universities in Southeast Asia and on of the top universities in Asia attracting students from across the region. The environment of the university, the organization structure, teaching and management were top notch and it had produced many a great people for the country as well as for the world. Political leaders such as Bogyoke Aung San and U Nu were its alumni. So was U Thant, the third Secretary-General of the United Nations. Historian Dr Than Tun, historian and librarian U Thaw Kaung winners of Fukuoka Asian Culture Prizes were also alumnis of the university.

            However a university that had produced many great persons for the region and the world had declined gradually to a stage where it became a place that was simply handing out degrees to graduates.

            Attempts were now made to reverse this trend. Physical infrastructures like buildings were being renovated while momentum was increased toward improving the teaching portion. Due to the efforts of all Yangon University’s global ranking climbed to 7,221 in July 2019 from 13,072 in 2016. It was only a few years ago that students were getting flocking back to Yangon University that was deserted for several years. A few years ago a selection of high school students matriculating with top scores starts to study arts and science subjects in the university bringing back life to the deserted university.

            While the teaching standards were raised for select top notch students, arrangements were made to improve the physical infrastructures like building and the surrounding environments. At such time when efforts were made to regain the world class status, centenary of the university is also coming. In other word, Yangon University will soon be a hundred years old university.

            Yangon University is located along the southwestern bank of Inya Lake, the largest lake in the city. It is on the corner of Pyay Road and University Avenue Road in Kamayut Township, north of downtown Yangon. Established on 1 December 1920, Yangon University will be 100 years old by 1 December 2020. Steering Committee on Holding Centenary of Yangon University chaired by the State Counsellor held a meeting in Ministry of Education, Nay Pyi Taw on 10 July 2019 to hold a union level centenary of the university.

            Arrangements were made to conduct a Union level Centenary of Yangon University from 1 December 2019 to December 2020. Prior to holding the centenary, renovation and new constructions were made in the compound of the university. At the moment, the Universities Dhamma Hall more commonly known as University Dhammayone was renovated under the personal management of Deputy Minister for Construction.

            Recreation Centre, Library and Dalbergia Kurzii tree commonly known as Thitpote Tree were the heart of Yangon University. Arrangements were now being made by Yangon Heritage Trust to attach a Blue Plaque to the Thitpote Tree recognizing it as a historical site. A project to attach Blue Plaques to historical sites and heritage buildings in Yangon was conducted by Yangon Heritage Trust with the support of Yangon City Development Committee and donations of donors. World class Student Hub and University Hub will also be constructed around the area surrounding the Recreation Centre, Library and the Thitpote Tree.

            While all round development of Yangon University was being conducted it is important for the university to conduct practical research works that’ll benefit the region and the country. Expansion of practical research works, good teaching and learning programs, local and international education exchange programs is much required. Programs that produce qualified educated youths are also a requirement.

            The coincidence of the centenary and the effort to achieve world status again was a driving force toward future progress and development. As such during the post centenary period after 2020, the university will surely take progressive steps in stages to reach world class recognition that it once had. – translated by Handytips

Ancient Tha Ye Cave near Kalaw

Ancient Tha Ye Cave near Kalaw

By Thiha Lulin

            In my Kalaw trip, I went to an interesting and secluded limestone cave with an ancient pagoda. The ancient pagoda and the cave were in a place about 11 miles away from Kalaw Town. The interest in the place was raised after a group went there to find a suitable location for a movie scene. There were some posting on social media sites as an un-maintained pagoda requiring maintenance and renovation. Hopefully it would be a systematic maintenance and renovation that retains the ancient works.

Tha Ye Cave

            The name of the cave Tha Ye was written as Tha Ye (ghost) but some pronounced it Ta Ye. But hearing the name for the first time could make you shiver with fear for thinking there must be ghosts in the cave.

            The cave was close to a village, Tha Ye Village, and may be that was why it was called Tha Ye Cave. People who had repaired or maintained the pagoda in the earlier days had put up a sign with the village name as such and thus the name remains as it is. The cave was a natural one and except for some Buddha images and the pagoda near the mouth of it, the inner part of the cave had Speleothems or cave formations typically seen in limestone caves. Those cave formations were of much interest for me. The Buddha images were considered to be several hundred years old. Buddha images renovated and maintained during the period 2005 to 2010 were seen at the ascent to the cave mouth. The cave mouth can be reached by walking along the narrow pathway winding along the side of the mountain. There were some Buddha images placed in places where the pathway widens due to cavities in the mountain side. As the mouth of the natural cave was hidden by the Buddha images it was thanks to a monk from a monastery along the way that we were able to find it.

            Birds and probably bats were in the cave so if I went there alone, the place would be scary and look as though it was haunted. The cave was said to be quite long as the end couldn’t be reached even after walking in for an hour. Some also say the cave is the brother cave of to Pindaya Shwe U Min cave with the Pindaya cave considered as the sister cave. The pagoda festival was held for a day only.

How to reach it

            As there isn’t much visitor, the way to the place was not well know. Going along the Aungban-Pindaya Road from Kalaw and passing the big garbage dump in Aungban will bring you to Hnin Shwe Yi fuel station. There’s a small earth road beside the fuel station and we drive along it for about 10 minutes checking with every farmers we found along the way to ensure that we were on the right way. In the open season, a small and medium-size car can be driven along the earth road. But during the raining season, the place wouldn’t be accessible by car as the road would be full of mud bogging down any car trying to go over it.

My trip there

            In my trip there, my curiosity and interest was raised on seeing the two lion statue at the foot of the mountain where there was an old covered path to the cave. I was a bit worried that the climb may be tiring but reached the mouth of the cave after a short climb. There were many Buddha images of various sizes that were obviously of ancient styles. There were many more after entering a bit into the cave but deeper inside the cave, it was just a natural limestone cave.

            If a person asked me whether it was worthwhile to visit the place, I would say it’ll depend on the person who was putting up the question. Some may say “Is this all?” after seeing the place while some will say it is an invaluable place with ancient images and a natural cave.

            I only have cautionary word for renovation and maintenance. Opinions and advice of archaeologist and experts should be obtained so that the original styles and made of the images were not altered.

            May all visitors to the place have a safe and happy trip to Tha Ye Cave. – Translated by Handytips

Wooden Ornamental Backdrops of Thrones of Myanmar Artistic Handiwork

Wooden Ornamental Backdrops of Thrones of 

Myanmar Artistic Handiwork

Photo: Maung Tha (Archaeology)

Photo: Maung Tha (Archaeology)

Photo: Aung Moe Zaw

Photo: Aung Moe Zaw

Photo: Aung Moe Zaw

Photo: Aung Moe Zaw

By Maung Thar (Archaeology)

“Dage” defined in Myanmar Dictionary as the backdrop of a throne is Myanmar traditional artistic handiwork of wood carving and decorative work of floral arabesque in relief with stucco. In Myanmar architecture, ‘Suu-lit-mun-chun” called finials used to be made of wood, stone, cement, gold, silver, brass or iron. Myanmar architects usually shape finials in various ways such as relief, figure or statue in the round, as well as sculpt motifs of ogre, garuda, kinnara, Indra/Sakka, peacock, elephants and lion in floral arabesque.

          Out of these finials, wooden ornamental backdrops of Myanmar traditional handiwork can be found mostly in religious edifices such as pagodas, stupas, temples, monasteries and roofs of terraced streets across the country. “Dage” is called “Palin Dage” in combination with “Palin” which is defined in Myanmar Dictionary as the high seat made for noble ideals to sit. Accordingly, “Dage” is the ornamental backdrop of a throne decorated with floral arabesque.

          “Palin Dage” consists of 12 parts, namely, lion, flying elephant, deity revered by the world, fan made of peacock tail feathers, net-like ornamentation on each side of Lion throne, Dagar Taing, Indra/Sakka, Kinnara, Virtuous Deva, stylized figure resembling a lion with flowing mane, Lotus, Floral motif on either side of the Indra figure on the upper part of the Myanmar throne. Lion is mostly sculpted on the lower part of the throne.

          In addition to wooden ornamental backdrop of a throne, “Mok-kat Dage” / backdrops attached to the entrance of Ceti and pagoda can be found. မုခ္ “Mok” is descended from Pali မုခ meant for the entrance. There can be seen cement ornamental backdrops at the places of arched ones at the upper parts of the entrances. Cement ornamental backdrops decorated with floral arabesques and lotus flowers are fastened at the window and doors of the entrance as “Mok-kat Dage”. 

          “Mok-Dages/ornamental backdrops attached to entrances” of ancient monasteries were mostly made of wood and in floral arabesques of those backdrops statues of Indra/Sakka, Deva, Peacock and others were sculpted. The plots of Jakata/ Buddha’s life stories and Niparta/birth stories of Buddha had been described in floral arabesques in those wooden ornamental backdrops of thrones made of 5 layers of planks of wood. These were delicate Myanmar Traditional Artistic handiworks. Now that most of the wooden backdrops of thrones made in the Eras of Bagan, Innwa and Nyaungyan had fallen to decay we can mostly see those of Konbaung Era’s handiworks presently.

Ornamental backdrops of thrones in statues in the round and those in relief

          In wooden ornamental backdrops of thrones, statues used to be sculpted in the round, in relief and in arched forms. Statues in the round can be seen from 6 directions—left and right, in front and from backward & upward and downward. Statues in relief cannot be seen from all 6 directions likewise statues in the round but they are remarkably prominent as the former ones. Arched statues are the sculpted ones so that they can be made visible from the front side only whereas statues in the round have been sculpted so that the whole can be viewed in detail. Statues in relief and arched ones are usually sculpted attached to the places they are to be placed.

          The ornamental backdrops of thrones with floral arabesques sculpted statues in the round, in relief and arched statues on wood differ in decoration depending upon the time and places. Since prior to the Konbaung Era, wooden and ornamental cement backdrops had been sculpted, those of Konbaung Era’s handiwork had been full of delicate description, hence becoming the most artistic handiwork.

          Out of the holy ornamental backdrops of the thrones decorated by making in layers “Shwegu Dagetaw” in Pakkoku is famous and always crowded with those who come to view. The original holy Dagetaw at “Thihoshin” Pagoda was the one of extremely artistic handiwork but it was burnt to the ground. Thus, today we can view its photograph only.

          Pakkoku in Magway Region is the second largest town where there are famous Dages situated. Located on the west bank of the Ayeyawady River, Pakkoku Township touches the borders of Myaing, Yesagyo, Nyaung U, Hseikphyu and Pauk townships. 75 miles far from south west of Mandalay abounds with religious edifices and monastic Buddhist literature teaching schools. “Thihoshin alias Payagyi” “Shwegu Pagoda” and “Shwe Mokehtaw Pagoda” are the famous pagodas in downtown area of Pakkoku, as is the “Shwe Tant Tit Pagoda” in the township.

Two holy ornamental backdrops of Thihoshin Pagoda

          “Thihoshin Pagoda” in Pakkoku is the Buddha Statue donated by King Alaung Sithu in AD 1117. King Asoka had the holy wood ‘Dakkhina Tharkhar Maha Bodhi’ which was presented by King Thiho/ Ceylon/ Sri Lanka sculpted, hence naming after ‘Thihoshin Pagoda’. At the Thihoshin Pagoda there are 3 Buddha images, one donated by King Alaung Sithu and the other two by the village-head.

          Till 1964, Thihoshin Pagoda had holy wooden ornamental backdrops of thrones, with the eastern one situated at the entrance to the 3 Standing Buddha Statues and the western one behind the said 3 Statues. In April 1964, the two ‘Dages’ were burnt to the ground, together with ‘Ganda Gudi/ special chamber for the use of Buddha and roofed passage of ‘Thihoshin Pagoda’. In place of the burnt ‘Dages’ the new one had been built with the present day’s architectural handiwork, standing as a grandeur.

          The original eastern ‘Dage’ sculpted beautifully with finials had been as if hanging a big festoon to worship the Buddha by beings, deities and Brahma. It was sculpted on the full moon day of Waso, 1275 ME, by the sculptors named U Kan Gyi and son U Tay. The donors were U San Hla and wife Daw Kyu of Mezaligon Village of Pakkoku Township who commissioned U Kan Gyi and U Tay to have sculpted it, at kyat 1000 charge of service rendered.

          It took the two sculptors one year to have sculpted the ‘Dage’ in the form of a festoon by combing 3 logs of Yamanay wood/Gmelina Arborea, on which plots of Buddha’s life—from preaching Dhamma Cekka Sutta to the Demise of Buddha were shaped in nearly 1000 figures in the round, in relief and in arched form of those including the King, the Queen, deities, Indra and Celestial Beings.

          The western ‘Dage’ of the ‘Thihoshin Pagoda’ was donated by Daw Ein Min, Poedan Street in Pantaw Quarter of Pakkoku, who commissioned U Kan Gyi ad U Tay as well, at the charges—3000 kyats. It took 3 years to finish sculpting it, completing on the full moon day of Tabaung, 1271 ME. On 8 floral layers made on one log of Yamanay wood, out of 25 scenes in total, acts of renunciation of the world in Buddha’s Life & acts of Vidura Zat Taw the sculptors sculpted, 15 in the left and 10 in the right part. Amaegyioh U Aung Sein, the famous writer made Shwe Mann U Tin Maung play the act by looking at these sculptures, it was learnt.

Shweku Dage    

          The world-famous backdrop of a throne in which most visitors from home and abroad are greatly interested, has been restored in the glass box in the eastern part of the special chamber of Shweku Buddha Statue.

           The wooden ornamental backdrop made of Yamanay wood with 5 feet 10 inches in length, 12 feet 10 inches in height and 8 inches in width is situated behind the Standing Buddha Statue of 5 feet 2 inches in height. Dagetaw on which 136 sculptures and 18 animal images had been sculpted on 8 tiers has exquisite handiworks.

          The sculptors of the Shweku Dage were U Kan Gyi and his son. In the record, “Shwe Ku Dagetaw of the wonders of the world” posted nearby, it has been recorded that the sculptors who had been commissioned to make it accepted 4000 pieces of silver coins on 3^rd Waning Day of Tabaung Month, 1269 ME, taking over 4 years period to make it, by linking with 5 pieces of logs.

          Donors of this Dage were U Hinngar & wife Daw Zee Zan, their daughters Mae Thit & Mae Myit who resided in building no 575 of Kyaungtawyar Street, Old Market, in Pakokku. On the left floral arabesque of Shweku Dage the names—Sayar U Kan Gyi, son Maung Tay were written whereas on the right floral arabesque of the Dage the donors’ names—Ma Zee Zan, Ko Hinngar, Ma Mae Thin were recorded.

          U Sheinn, father of U Kan Gyi was a famous sculptor in the reign of King Mindon. The village, “Thitgyitaw Laytan” in which U Kan Gyi lived is the one who produced famous sculptors in the consecutive eras. U Kan Gyi and his son U Tay made over 50 tools for sculpting Shweku Dage, by themselves.

          The two sculptors managed to sculpt 12 crucial scenes from the plays such as ‘Deva Rawhana’ ‘Naymi’ ‘Thardina’ & Bhimmi Sara’. On the uppermost tier of Shweku Dage 21 sculptures had been sculpted, describing the Lord Buddha preached Abhidhamma’ to Mae Taw Mi god & audience in Tarwateinthar Celestial Abode, and thence the Buddha descended to Human Abode through the Gold, Silver & Ruby Stairways.

          In carving the images describing that the Buddha descended to the human abode’s southern gate of Theingathanago City through the Middle Ruby Stairway, there are 33 sculptures comprising of Martali, Visakyone god, Brahmas, conch shell blower, parasol holder, fan waver and musical troupe. Being greatly animated, the Shweku Dagetaw became a world-famous one.

          In the right upper side of the Dagetaw the scene of Naymi Zat and in the left upper side scenes of Thardina can be seen respectively. In carving the images describing Naymi King & Thardina King had been brought to the Celestial Abode by 3-horse-drawn-carriage, it looks as if the cart is coming out of the 8-tier-flower. It makes us feel that we are being in the forest to see a mother bird feeding her young.

          Images sculpted in the act of Bimmisara King were extremely exquisite that Amaegyioh U Aung Sein suggested to Shwe Man U Tin Maung to play as described in Dagetaw. It was learnt that the latter did in his dramas as suggested by the former.

          Sculptor U Kan Gyi made a replica prior to carving Shweku Dage, showing it to the Venerable Sayardaws and donors. Devoting himself to carving his work to the best of his calibers and he had thrown away tools used in carving the Dage into the Ayeyarwady River after finishing his work, it was learnt.

Shwe Tant Tit Dagetaw  

          Shwe Tant Tit pagoda is situated 3 miles far from East of Pakkoku. In the special chamber of the pagoda, a sacred Buddha Image made of sandalwood had been placed on the throne shouldered by 14 elephants, being one of similar six ones. Its Dage is 13 feet 3 inches long and its breadth 10 feet. Its donors were U Toe, Daw Oh, son U Pe, Daw Bwint, grandson Ko Ngwe Zone and Ma Mya residing in the village of Shwe Tant Tit.

          Sculptors, U Chan Thar of Shwe Tant Tit village & Sayar Aye of Pakkoku sculpted it from 1895 to 1898, lasting for 3 years 2 months and 10 days. They got paid silver coins 1500 for the work. It was carved by combining 13 logs—teak and Yamanay wood.

          Including Dage in Pakkoku wooden backdrops of thrones of Myanmar Cultural Heritage were delicately carved. In the gates of Innwa Verkara Monastery and Pakhangyi Monastery wooden dages were attached at the entrances.

          Wooden backdrops were made of wood. For them to last for long, they need to be placed under roof and shelter. Woods are prone to destruction due to weather, insects and human-made disaster such as fire. Only if wooden backdrops can be maintained by protecting them from various kinds of dangers will Myanmar cultural heritages be able to be relayed to generations to come.

References:

-Myanmar Encyclopedia         

-History of Shweku Buddha Statue (Ashin Kelarsa)

-Backdrops of thrones (Hlaing Win Swe)

Translated by                    Khin Maung Oo

To the mouth of Mt. Popa volcano

To the mouth of Mt. Popa volcano

By Maung Tha (Archaeology)

            The view of Mt. Popa on the road to it after driving past Kyaukpadaung Town was a spectacular sight. The solitary extinct volcano rising up to a height of 4,981 ft. above sea level makes it distinct in the flat plains of central Myanmar. It is a well known and a major attraction for both locals and foreigners alike.

            Mt. Popa is an extinct volcano in central Myanmar near Bagan and on a clear day, it can be seen from the bank of Ayeyawady River 37 miles away from it. It is 10 miles northeast of Kyaukpadaung Town in Mandalay Region, 405 miles from Yangon and 31 miles southeast of Bagan. Experts estimated the last eruption to be about 250,000 years ago. The mouth at the top of the extinct volcano was about a miles wide and drops down to a depth of 2,650 ft. The gorge or chasm was known as Chone Ma Twin gorge.

Attraction for researchers, devotees and visitors

            Mt. Popa is an attraction for students and researchers of geology, history, zoology, biology, forestry etc. as well as for religious devotees, curious and casual local and foreign visitors.

            Along the southwest slope of Mt. Popa is a pedestal hill, a sheer-sided volcanic plug, known locally as Taung Kalat, rises 2,156 above sea level. This was a place of legends and beliefs where believers, devotees, curious and casual local and foreign visitors flock to. Myths, legends, facts and fictions of Myanmar’s first kingdom Bagan was closely associated with Mt. Popa and this Taung Kalat.

            Deforestation almost completely wipes out vegetation and wild life in the Mt. Popa region but a successful reforestation campaign started more than half a century ago restored the vegetation and wild life to such an extent that it now had become a place for zoology, biology and forestry students, experts and enthusiasts to visit and study. Popa is home to 10 mammal species including monkey and wild cats, 100 species of butterflies, 175 species of brides, 360 types of herbs with medical values, 84 species of orchids, and several bird species including rare and endangered one.

Hiking to the mouth

            Most visitors came to Taung Kalat while the mountain itself was a place for students and experts to visit, study and research. However, it’s been some years since hikes up the mountain was arranged between December 21 and 25. It was not a very well known activity but it had been growing in popularity among locals as well as foreign visitors year by year and this was what brought me to the mountain.

            Majority of the hikers were from nearby townships of Kyaukpadaung, Myingyan and NyaungU. Christmas was the day when most climbers or hikers hiked up the mountain. They were ordinary people who came just for fun and were not mountaineers, a native or inhabitant of a mountainous region or a person who climb mountains for sports. They came in groups to enjoy the hike in the cool December weather. As it was a memorable hike for all, more and more were participating in the annual hike up Mt. Popa. The hikers take the jungle trail on the left side of the road just before reaching Popa Mountain Resort. Popa Mountain Resort is on the side of Mt. Popa overlooking Taung Kalat.

            My hike up the mountain was arranged by Journey Plan Travel from Yangon and we went along with a group organized by Bagan Hotelier and Bagan Tour Guide groups.

            We left our hotel in Popa Town by car passing through Popa Lwin and Gyaing villages and arrived at a natural pozzolan factory. Pozzolan is a natural product rich in silica and aluminous materials and were found volcanic ash. Contact with water made it harder and harder to it was used in constructing canals and dams to strengthen the structures said Bagan Hotelier Group Chairman U Zaw Wate.

            After 10 minutes drive from pozzolan factory brought us to Taung Paw Village (south). There were two Taung Paw Villages, south and north of which Taung Paw Village (south) was beside the road leading to the mountain top. It had more than 500 households and majority of the villagers were farmers growing banana, peanut, tomato etc. Even though the village name in English would be mountain top village (Taung = mountain, Paw = on or top), we were actually at the start of our hike up the mountain.

            The cars were parked at the exit of the village and our hike up the mountain starts there and then. On departing the village, we went past farm lands were individual lands were demarcated by stone hedges. The stone hedges were made putting big stone at the bottom with smaller one place on top. That was a strange sight for me. Being a volcanic area, the place had many stones that were formerly lava spewed out by the volcano. These volcanic stones littered the area around the volcano to a considerable distant.

            After passing the farm lands, the tract became narrower and our group had to walk in a single file. The hike up the mountain wasn’t steep but long so many of our group members stop frequently to rest.

            The mountain path was through thin forest that had become a habitat for monkey, wild pigs and deer said U Thein Win from Forest Department who was in our group. We hiked up slow and steadily and reached the mouth of the volcano in about an hour and half.

            On the plateau near the summit of the mountain was a Forest Department station where we rest briefly and then continue down the crater of the volcano locally known as Chone Ma Twin gorge. The descent was a bit steep. Before I was there I read about the crater being surrounded by three peaks looking up from the crater but when I was there, I saw four peaks or summits surrounding the crater. As in the case of many peaks or summits in Myanmar each peak or summit here had a pagoda on top of it. We briefly look around inside the crater and then return back to the Forest Department station without climbing further up to the summit of the mountain.

            As we descended the mountain, we passed by many farm lands. In some farm houses, we also saw dragon fruits grown on a concrete pillar. As dragon fruit fetches good price, many household grow it in a small scale.

            Kyaukpadaung Township where Mt. Popa is located was bordered by Meiktila Township and Mahlaing Township in the east, Nyaung U and Chauk townships in the west, Natmauk Township in the south and Taungtha Township in the north. It is easily accessible by good road connections. With its diverse and good eco-system, pleasant climate all year round and scenic natural view, local and foreign visitors can visit it all year round. Arranging new activity like our hike up Mt. Popa was a good way of making this place more attractive. – Translated by Handytips